Clare and Ross - a van, no plan.

Thwarted a couple of days ago by floodwaters, today we took the Winter Route to the dam...a side loop from the main trail that had a bridge and board walk across the raging torrent. Made it! The dam was larger than we expected and holds the water supply for Margaret River.. We walked a loop around the dam wall and enjoyed lunch amongst a tall Jarrah and Marri forest. The track was fun to ride and we were surprised that coming home it was mostly down hill.We shared a coffee at the end of the track with a couple of cheeky birds.

Fantastic Saturday morning farmers market....fresh fruit and vegies, Italian food, arancini balls,fresh bread.....yum yum. We loaded up with produce and when walking back came across a community garden....lots of lovely shady spots and little winding paths. There were volunteers serving tea or coffee with homemade cakes for a donation.....to eat and drink in the garden. Lots of people were enjoying the setting. Later exploring further along the river....so many plants flowering....we are lucky to be here this time of year.

Cycled along a cycle path very different to yesterday's.....it was sealed all the way.....no rocks, roots ,fallen trees, mud or massive pools of water.....it was lovely! Rode along to the mouth of the Margaret River then down to Prevelly where we were able to watch the surf rolling in. Definately a surfing community! No Great White Sharks in view today.

We had the caravan serviced this morning...brakes, bearings, lights etc all greased, cleaned and checked. He found that the valves on our tyres need replacing as they are all cracked...so we need to find a tyre place. Rode our bikes along the track to the dam. The track started wide and a good surface but as we went along it got narrower and became a mountain bike track.....we rode through big mud patches, large water pools, over rocks and stumps, under a fallen tree and managed not to fall off as we rode over thousands of very large round eucalypt seed pods. We went past a turn to an alternate winter track but continued on the "summer" track. It continued up and down until we ended up at a deep water crossing with the water flowing very fast and a sign saying...do not cross. We did not cross and did not get to the dam. Never mind....it was a new riding experience and we emerged unscathed.

Ross had a tennis morning with some of the locals. Only a small group of about 6 but friendly and just the right ability level. He misses Wednesdays at Castle Hill with its great bunch of characters. Clare went for a walk along one side of the Margaret River....there is an excellent walking / cycle track going on for over 10 km so did not go the full way but crossed at a weir and walked back on the other side of the river  The weir was flowing rapidly.....there has been a lot of rain.....there was a clever fish ladder to allow fish to travel up and down the river. This afternoon we visited Hamlin Bay between downpours of rain. Despite looking very carefully along the shore there was not a single stingray to be seen.....last time we were here there were huge numbers of very large rays right at the water's edge. Nevermind....walked up onto the headland to look over into the next bay....only 2 snorkelers in wet suits to be seen. We mistook them for seals for several minute

We have spent the day with the Scott family in Nannup. Catherine is Clare's second cousin. The family run a farm ....growing fruit.....apples,pears,apricots,peaches,nectarines,avocado.....and keeping cattle. The farm is in a beautiful spot on the Blackwood River and extended as far as the eye could see. Thanks for a great day Catherine, Mark, James and Harry.

Explored the walking track along the river and out to where it joins the ocean....lots of people in kyacks, swimming and learning to surf in quite protected waters. Rode along the extension of this path to Cape Leeuwin lighthouse. It was a nice path off the road mostly and running all along the coast past a sparkling new marina. The lighthouse is situated on the most south westerly point in Australia and is where the Indian and Southern Oceans converge. It is being renovated so we were not able to climb it so we settled for an ice-cream instead. This is also the end point of the Cape to Cape walking trail.....sorry Rachael we beat you to it. Cycling home, we watched some stingrays in very shallow water at one of the beaches. A different type of shingle back lizard was on the track sunning itself.

Drove today through tall Karri forest initally then much smaller scrubby bush as we moved further West. Augusta is where the Blackwood River comes out to the coast. Near the bottom west of WA. It is a big river and very picturesque. Our campsite is right on the bank of the river. We had a family of ducks come to visit with their 14 ducklings.....very cute and not scared at all. There is a nice path along the river.....lots of pelicans arguing over crabs they were catching and trying to swallow......what happens to the shells and claws?

We have a family of Tawny Frogmouths in a tree just near our caravan...Dad and Mum with 2 little babies snuggled in under her....very cute! Drove 30 mins North to Mt Frankland through more spectacular forest with huge straight Karri trees....thank goodness they are protected  Mt Frankland summit was used as a lookout for fire across in a huge area of forest. The man doing the looking out, lived in a hut at the bottom of a steep path, 300 steps and 2 ladders. He stayed there for Four months a year. It is a granite peak.....we understood why it was a lookout when we got there. We sat on the rock looking out for 100km in all directions with the warm sun on our back thinking how lucky we were. There was another suspended lookout a little further down....we prefered being on top of the peak. After returning to Walpole we walked a short section of the Bibblemun Track....for days we have been crisscrossing the trail that runs  1000km from Perth to Albany....it visits a

Walked up Mount Clare today.....just because of its name. The path up went through tall timber forest.....huge old Red Tingles and Karri....they make a dense canopy so not a lot of understory plants. The summit was granite with grass trees and moss....views out to the ocean. After a rather classy lunch at a surprising cafe in a town with about ten houses, we went to the Tree Top Walk. A network of suspended walkways in the tops of the massive trees here....they bounced as we walked along and took us up 40 metres above ground level. We were then able to walk amongst some fine old trees many with burnt out centres.

Dreadful weather last night and this morning...wind and torrential rain. We drove the back way through the forests between Denmark and Walpole. Things were brighter this afternoon as we explored Coalmine Beach where we are staying .... kangaroos are very much at home in the caravan park. We drove to see old Tingle forest.....massive trees. The biggest is thought to be 400 years old and has survived many bush fires. There are Red and Yellow Tingle trees....types of eucalypts...named for the colour of timber they produce. The ones here are Red Tingle. Drove on through the National Park to Circular Pool on the Frankland River. The water was very brown from the tannins and the turbulence as it rushed over rocks caused lots of froth....massive amounts....all very natural according to the signage, which suggested it was actually a massive cappuccino.

Drove inland again to the Porungarup Ranges. Walked up to Castle Rock where they have an amazing granite skywalk built around the granite peak. 2.2 Km steadily uphill with so many plants flowering...masses of yellow and purple pea flowers with a really strong perfume all along the path. Just before the top was a balancing rock....it looked like a big wind should have blown it off. Ross managed to keep it steady though. We then had a rock scramble with metal hand holds in the rock before a 7 Metre vertical ladder up to the skywalk. up on the top the view was breath taking....out to the coast...Albany and along to Denmark and back the other way to the Stirling Ranges and Bluff Knoll that we climbed a few days ago. We passed through Mt Barker on our way home and stopped at one of the vineyards for some tasting and pizza. We sat outside enjoying the beautiful day.

We have moved a little further west today  Denmark is a nice town full of art galleries, cafes and vineyards. We have suddenly entered the realm of the huge trees. Visited Green's Pool on the coast here. And Elephant Rocks. 2 hardy souls were swimming but everyone else enjoyed soaking up some sunshine and the view while sitting on the big rocks around the headland. We had some very cheeky visitors to our campsite this evening....Ring Neck parrots.....looking for food....happy to eat out of our hands.

South of Albany is a beautiful coastal National Park. We stood looking down at the water surging into The Gap ....there is a walkway over the gap so we were suspended over the water....very dramatic! A little further along was a natural arch...again with the ocean rushing in and out under the arch. Lots of inaccessible white sand beaches and rocky slopes sliding into the ocean.. The blowholes were not blowing today but made a great noise as the waves crashed underneath us. There is an historic whaling station on the southern most shore of the park....a cafe with sensational views over the ocean and an old whaling ship as part of a museum. Another banksia that we had not seen before....great colours!

Bluff Knoll is in the Sterling Ranges..the highest point in SW WA.....the news reported snow on top 2 days ago. As we drove up the top was covered in cloud but as we started the walk it cleared. The path gains 650 metres over 3 km....so it was up up up all the way. The views from the top were sensational and 360 degrees. The next challenge was getting down again! Lots of interesting plants flowering including black boys that do not have a flower spike but multiple little flowers out of the base of the leaves. You will be glad to know we made it safely down...not sure how the knees will be tomorrow though.

Rode the cycle path that goes past the caravan park where we are staying. Rode out to the end at Emu Point...a very narrow water channel going into Oyster harbour...a very protected and large waterway with a marina on it and large swimming area cordoned off. Had a great spot on the point for a cafe....coffee always welcome! We then cycled back along the full 10km past the caravan park, along Middleton Beach and around the headland into town. Lots of uphill climbs but also lots of long downhills. Noticed this beautiful banksia as we cycled past.

Arrived here at about lunch time so explored town a little....we have been here several years ago and remembered things as we went along. Walked back from town around the headland to Middleton Beach where the caravan park is. There is a large port area and a narrow entrance to the harbour. This is where the Australian troops gathered before being put on boats and sent off to Gallipoli and Flanders in WW1 Overlooking the entrance to the harbour is a statue and memorial to Ataturk Peace at home Peace in the world. Lots of things are flowering....we can usually guess the genus but most are different species to those we are familiar with. Look at this banksia (or Dryandra) which was prolific along the path.

We have stopped half way to Albany. It has been a very very windy day...hot wind to begin with. We stopped at Ravensthorpe for lunch and it sounded like the roof was going to blow off! Silo art of local banksias....many of which were growing in the main Street. As we drove further it began to pour with rain and it got very cold.....decided to call it a day at Jerramungup.......everything is something up here.

Cycling day today....cycled down to the waterfront and rode East. The main town beach looks clean and attractive despite the port being close. Arrived at the old jetty which has been rebuilt in the original curved shape....lots of fishermen and people just out strolling enjoying the sunshine. Riding along further we left the shoreline to visit Lucky Bay Brewery...pizzas and beer in a garden setting....the brewery appears to be doing well....lots of people with tasting trays. Rode back to town and afternoon coffee and cake at The Quarters..... overlooking the marina with an old clock tower that chimed in the hour. Sunny day with light winds max 17°, a very nice day in a beautiful area. Esperance gets a big tick from us🥂

Explored Cape Le Grande National Park today. Walked up Frenchman's Peak.....a very steep climb but an amazing 360 degree view from the top....views out over the park in one direction and over the coastline and islands in the other. Lucky Bay....just beautiful! White sand and turquoise ocean, a coffee van....$7 a cup but we both paid happily, no kangaroos today but some hardy souls were swimming and why do they let people drive on a beach as beautiful as this? We went on to Hellfire Bay....a great name! the ocean was certainly fierce here  As we walked along the beach there were hundreds of bees on the sand....some dead and some only just alive.....it was like a swarm of bees flew out over the ocean too far, got exhausted and fell into the ocean to be washed up on the beach....is that possible?

We are camped 21/2km from the centre of town so nice walk in to have breakfast then walk back. We went to look at Pink Lake just up the road....sadly it is no longer pink....it is very shallow and just looks like other salt lakes we have seen. Drove along the coast drive...all the beaches west of town. Beautiful white sand beaches. We dutifully went down the stairs and walked along each beach and out to every lookout. Each was a little different....all were very windy and empty....just us and some hardy dog walkers. Our favourite was Twilight Beach....beautiful...there was a notice saying there had been a recent shark sighting....we did not see any today.